You are always guaranteed to have a fluttery companion at every meal at Chan Chich Lodge. Whether you are sipping on an early morning cup of Gallon Jug coffee or munching on a hearty black bean burger for lunch, a variety of hummingbird species will perch on nearby branches, whiz by your ears, and fight one another for a precious sip of sugary liquid from the hummingbird feeder and nearby flowers. It is an entertaining and lively spectacle full of reproachful tweeting and muffled buzzing as the hummingbirds dive and zig-zag through the different obstacles (sedentary, observant humans included) that surround the dangling feeder.

The Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, although one of the smaller species among the ones that frequent the area, is the most territorial. They habitually rest on flower twigs or wooden branches closest to the feeder, scouting for any “intruders” to their nectar source and chasing them down when they overstep (or over-fly) their boundary.

The Long-billed Hermit is the most “charismatic” of the bunch. It is certain that at least once in every meal, a hermit will pause next to your chair or above your table and playfully examine you for a few seconds. When you look into its beady little black eyes you notice the wit and curiosity of the little bird and cannot help but feel a sense of adoration for the cunning creature. But before you can even consider the possibility of extending your hand to hopefully caress it, the hummingbird zips away and clicks its tongue in jest.

In the “background” of all the tumult one finds the glamorous White-bellied Emerald, poised and unruffled by the redundant scuffling (most commonly) between the Rufous-tailed Hummingbird and the Long-billed Hermit. The contrast between their white tummy and iridescent green back hypnotizes the viewer. These little guys have to be the most patient of the pack, since they’re the smallest and can be bullied away more easily by the more possessive hummers. Their strategy is to wait on their perch until the rest of their confreres are squabbling and then duck in to take some hasty drafts of ambrosia, then retreating before attracting notice.

I am convinced that the interaction I observe among these species at every meal is not a simple observation of hummingbird behavior. Like characters in a play, each one has a role and knows exactly how to embellish their performance to entertain restaurant guests. Even if it’s a silly belief, I know I am their most captivated audience member.