I have lived in South Sudan now for over a month! Living and working in a developing country is definitely thrilling and challenging. Within a few moments of stepping off the plane in Juba, the capital of South Sudan, I had my first encounter with South Sudan’s interesting rules and regulations. The arrival terminal at the airport is modest and petite.
While I waited for my luggage to be scanned in the airport’s newly installed x-ray scanner, I found a dingy luggage cart with a sign stating “Welcome to London Heathrow Airport”. How funny? I had to take a picture! Right after the flash went off, a security officer snatched the camera out of my hand and asked me to enter the security office. After a short interrogation, I pleaded for forgiveness, deleted the photo, and scurried out of the airport gate.
That was my first taste of how some things work around here. Although I’ve had little time to explore beyond the walls of my compound, I can tell you South Sudan is undergoing many changes after its independence in July. From the implementation of new currency to the surge of South Sudanese pride, I am lucky to see South Sudan’s transformation first hand. Although there is much change, I’d like to share some characteristics of South Sudanese life that are rooted in tradition found right here at my workplace.
Have you ever noticed how African women tend to have great posture? I think it’s because they carry and balance things on their head. It’s amazing to see how strong and graceful these women are walking on the muddy roads while carrying heavy and sometimes obscurely-shaped objects. One day I went to the local market, called Konyo Konyo, to purchase firewood, and I saw a South Sudanese woman balancing a pile of firewood the length of five feet! Even at work I see it.
The restaurant stewards carry 20kg of potatoes in a metal bowl sitting right on their heads. The housekeepers I work with will carry folded laundry or bales of toilet paper on their heads. I had to ask the housekeepers what’s their secret. They told me that this is just how things are done. They pulled back my slumped shoulders, brought my chin forward and found the balancing point where the box would sit. I mastered balancing a box but walking more than a few feet was still a challenge. Luckily, I have a few pictures from this experience. However, I don’t have pictures outside the compound as it is illegal to take public photos in Juba!
Second, have you ever wondered how one cuts grass without a lawn mower? To be honest, I never thought about it until I saw 4 groundskeepers in the field using a tool resembling a golf club to manicure the lawn. They call it the slasher or Dunge in Juba Arabic. To indulge my curiosity, I took a turn at cutting a plot of grass. I underestimated just how sharp the edge of the tool actually is. As I swung I heard a swish sound cut through the air. The groundskeepers were both humored and scared by my faint attempt to help them. Supposedly, this kind of tool has been used for as long as the men can remember.
Lastly, I want to introduce the local Sudanese broom. The broom looks like a bunch of sticks tied together at one end. Although seeming ly primitive, this device is extremely effective for such a dusty area as Juba is. The broom can sweep away dust bunnies from small corners and under beds better than any swiffer I’ve ever used. The local broom is especially good for outdoor spaces like thatched roofs and dusty corridors. In Bangladesh, a similar device is used. I find it interesting how parallels exist between my experience here and in Bangladesh; one thing is for sure between the two places, resourcefulness is universal.
This blog entry is just a taste of my experience thus far in South Sudan. I hope to share many more in the months to come!
Organikos 