
Greg Long at the the 2004-2005 Mavericks Big Wave Surf Contest; Half Moon Bay, March 2, 2005.
CREDIT PHOTOGRAPH BY BY ROBERT B. STANTON/WIREIMAGE VIA GETTY
We are looking forward to the arrival in a few weeks of our colleague Derek, coming to us from Costa Rica, where he grew up at Bosque del Cabo. Which means that, among other things, he is a surfer dude like his dad. Which means, while he knows the thrill of a wave he also knows that safety is essential.
Derek will be leading the Aquatic Ecstasy initiatives at our newly opened Marari Pearl and this blog post below reminds us of one of his key imperatives if there is to be any lasting effect of aquatic ecstasy. Safety. We excerpt the blog post below beginning the quotation after some gruesome description of what waves can do, and some language (the type of salty language that surfer dudes use in the most harrowing situations) that our younger readers do not need to see, but you can read the whole post here):
…With more influential surfers wearing the vests, inflatable technology caught on quickly. Dorian’s Billabong wetsuit, too, found a market among professionals. (Neither the V1 suit nor Patagonia’s vest are available commercially yet.)
“No one’s doing anything in giant surf without flotation devices unless they’re trying to act macho or something,” Hamilton said. Continue reading
















